View from the mountains

The winter has started to give hints of its approach here in the redwoods of Northern California. There have been rain clouds on the horizon and evenings get cool before dinner is done. In the garden, tomatoes are ripening in the low sun and wait to be devoured off the vine. Wine on the deck in the sultry evening is giving way to red wines that warm the soul as the fog rolls in. And there is the ubiquitous humungous zucchini.

For that last hurrah of summer, I have a delicious and unusual white to recommend and try to describe. It is from the Drylands winery, a "Marlborough Winery of Nobilo Wine Group", imported from New Zealand. Marlborough is an area of New Zealand that is known for the Wairau River and plains dominated by rich, silty soils and river beds.

The Sauvignon Blanc is remarkable for the fresh herbal and citrus flavors. The nose alone wakes up the senses. And the taste is not like any other SB that I have tasted. It is not too sweet and has the lightness of a typical Blanc, but the distinct flavor brings more to the palate. It has a lemony brightness and tingle to it, reminiscent of a sparkling wine.

I tried it with fish off the barby, polenta and grilled vegetables with a red pepper sauce, brilliantly executed by my culinarily-gifted son. And I think it could hold up with other dishes, expecially when they are complimentary to citrus, such as lamb, pork, or seafood salads. Why not pair calamari on a bed of greens and a light parmesan/garlic/olive oil dressed pasta?

This is a true winner of a white. Drylands also produces a Pinot Noir and a Dry Riesling. You can be sure these are on my list of wines to try.

Savor the tastes of the harvest

The turning of the sun towards fall changes the angle of light. And the air begins to cool earlier in the day. The plants in my garden are doing much the same, even the redwoods are beginning to store their energy and branches turn brown.

My garden consists of a rather large and prolific zucchini plant, a pepper that seems intimidated next to the "beast", arugula, a robust rosemary plant, and my sweet humble tomato plant. The tomatoes are almost ripe, turning a bright red, and a nice size, not too big -not too small. Just right for a snack of raw tomato slices with olive oil, sprinkle of salt, olives, fresh mozzarella and basil, with a splash or two of balsamic vinegar. For fun, maybe some cold beans: fava, canneloni, garbonzo. Simply delicious.

There are so many good wines to highlight such delicate flavors, which to choose?

I think Pinot Noir offers a nice accompaniment to the mix. Light, fruity, not too sweet to compete with the tomatoes and basil. For instance, Santa Barbara and the Russian River area have several wineries, including Byron Wines, David Bruce, and Woodenhead known for their quality varietals.

For an Italian wine, find a quality Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris, the former being Italian the latter French but the same grape. A wine I have reviewed previously, one of the most popular imports in the US, Santa Margharita, is consistently delicious. But there are some being produced closer to home that stand out. For easier to find Pinots, try Acacia or Cambria Wineries.

Wine grows better with age

Why is the age of wine so important? Is it always best to let wine age? What is the ideal time to age wine? How do I store my wine collection to get the best results?

From experience, I know that some wines reach a pinnacle while others don't do so well after a certain age. There seems to be a turning point when wine passes that golden hour and begins to degrade, lose flavor, and taste like vinegar. So that bottle you have been saving for a special occasion may end up being an epiphany or a disappointment.

In researching the subject, I found some good answers for the reasons behind the aging process. The list below, taken from Wikipedia, gives general ranges for wines that benefit from aging and another list of wines that don't need to be aged at all. Although there are many factors that go into the specific prime age for a particular wine, here are some of the key factors to consider:

"The ratio of sugars, acids and phenolics to water is a key determination of how well a wine can age." In other words, the less water in the wine prior to harvest the more flavor in the wine, and the more likely the resulting wine has aging potential. So start with a good wine.

Another factor is storage. Optimal conditions include little movement, no direct sunlight, controlled temperature fluctuations, and avoiding excessive heat, especially in white wines. In general, a wine has a greater potential to develop complexity and a more aromatic bouquet if it is allowed to age slowly in a relatively cool environment.

"As red wine ages, the harsh tannins of its youth gradually give way to a softer mouthfeel. As a wine starts to mature, its bouquet will become more developed and multi-layered. The lingering finish of a wine will lengthen." Sounds like a win-win to me. My taste is definitely not fond of harsh tannins or acidity which can overwhelm food; and I love a complex bouquet and flavor, soft feel on my palette, and a long finish.

Salute! Ching ching!

General aging times
Riesling (2–30 yrs)
Loire Valley Chenin blanc (4–30 yrs)
Cabernet Sauvignon (4–20 yrs)
Merlot (2–10 yrs)
Nebbiolo (4–20 yrs)
Pinot noir (2–8 yrs)
Sangiovese (2–8 yrs)
Syrah (4–16 yrs)
Zinfandel (2–6 yrs)
Classified Bordeaux (8–25 yrs)
Grand Cru Burgundy (8–25 yrs)
Spanish Tempranillo (2–8 yrs)

Wines that don't benefit from aging
Asti and Moscato, Spumante
Rosé and blush wines like White Zinfandel
Branded wines like Yellow Tail, Mouton Cadet, etc.
European table wine
American jug & box wine
Inexpensive varietals (with the possible exception of Cabernet Sauvignon)
All Nouveau wines
Basic Sherry, Ports, Vermouth

Salmon Delicioso

I recently discovered a great recipe for poached salmon. Salmon is a preferred food for those of us with high cholesteral as it has the good kind of cholesteral and protein and, of course, is so tasty.

The recipe uses a bed of lemon slices with parsley and tarragon stems to prop up the fish off the bottom of the saute pan as it poaches. Thus the fish does not overcook on one side and absorbs the fragrance of the lemon and herbs as it cooks. The fillet should be very fresh and should be cooked with the skin on the bottom. The skin can be removed before poaching. And needless to say, tarragon is great herb to use for many types of fish.

In addition to the bed of lemons and herb stems, you use a simple stock of shallots and 1/2 cup of white wine with equal measure of water to poach it. When the fish is done, a sauce made from the reduced stock, capers, honey, and olive oil completes this delicious dish. I didn't have honey, so I used a bit of maple syrup. The leaves of the parsley and tarragon are used in the sauce as well.

It is absolutely fabulous! And so easy to prepare.

Pair it with a delicate white. I have an interest in Italian whites lately, so perhaps a Pinot Grigio from Santa Margharita (already recommended) or a Soave Classico from Pieropan, and a green salad for a light, healthy meal on a special night. One of the best green salads I have tasted recently came from a friend who shared her recipe with me (thank you, Holly). It is baby spinach and mesclun greens tossed with green onions, pecans, and mandarin oranges with a simple balsamic oil and vinegar dressing drizzled over all.

Magnifico!

spring fever in the air

The air is still very cool, even here in Northern California. But there are little signs of change, blossoms, green grassy meadows; it is on its way. From the vinyards, there is talk of a good year, with lots of rain but spread out over several weeks, and few freezes, the vines have thrived. That is considered a perfect climate for our friends, the grapes. Soon we will be having picnics, eating outdoors again, and having get togethers with friends. Good time to plan a few of our best potluck dishes.

What are the important things to consider for potlucks? I recently had some homemade chili (it could have been homemade?) that the cook had added probably what she found to be a good amount of pepper heat, but for my tastes, and I like the hot stuff, it overpowered the taste of the ingredients. It wasn't a slow-appearing heat, or a bite of heat, it was a tongue burning heat in each bite.

Therefore, Rule 1, for a casserole or stew, moderate the seasoning of the dish to the middle, not too hot, not too bland, not too salty, not too boring. And precut the portions to speed up serving and avoid the line rage.

Rule 2 is to bring something that tastes good and is safe to eat being lukewarm or cool in temperature. Sitting out on a common table it will lose some of the warmth over time. One of my favorite apres-tennis potlucks featured a huge Chinese Chicken Salad, with that delicious syrupy dressing and the peanuts to be tossed in when we were ready to eat. The chicken pieces were still warm, but they didn't need to be hot to be delicious.

On the other hand, cheeses, while delicious at room temperature for the most part, may not react as well sitting in a hot sun for hours. But then again, if they can be kept cool before the party begins and set out about a half hour before eating starts, a beautiful brie with fresh bread or crackers and maybe some prosciutto or salame can't go wrong. Dijon on the side, please. Fresh fruits will be on the shelves soon and can make a light, sweet finish to the occasion.

Rule 3. Lastly, prepare it to be easily served on small paper plates or bowls, thus small spoonfuls or something that can be scooped out by the spoonful and eaten in small increments, like a potato or pasta salad. Large ingredients can be harder to handle and end up on the ground. Meats should be selected and prepared to be neatly packaged into a handy carrying case, like a roll or a bun.

My favorite wine for a potluck: Pinot Noir. The Fleur Pinot Noir pictured here is a light, fruit forward winner. It can complement all types of meats and cheeses, it has hints of cherry and berries, and drinks very smoothly with no bitterness. Compared to some dark reds it won't overpower the dishes, and it has a fruity smell and tongue that can reflect the lightness and sunshine of an outdoor party to complete the fresh air and sunny atmosphere.

Buon appetito!